Monday, April 18, 2005
BLT Fish
Overall BLT Fish is a quality experience with a beautiful top floor dining room. I do have to note that I spent my first visit at the downstairs bar. The service there was really dissapointing, but even more was the Lobster Roll. This was bordering on embarassing in all aspects including portion, flavor and choice of bread. I realize this is not the restaurnat's focus, but even so, if you decide to offer it on the menu, it must be as good as all other selections. With local competition from such gems like Pearl and Mary's I would suggest just leaving it off.
Pear Oyster Bar
Pearl Oyster Bar is one of the most consistent restaurants delivering perfect Lobster Rolls via attentive service. The lobster meat is tender and pilled high and dressing has great flavor but still lets the lobster shine. The bun is soft and buttery with such beautiful texture. Even the match stick fries are well seasoned and crip. I personally believe sitting at the bar having a lobster roll and a Guiness at Pearl is quite possibly as close to perfection one will ever get for lunch. I do recommend spending your time sitting at the bar. The people who populate the bar seating are true locals that know their food. This is a real New Yorkers paradise.
Mermaid Inn
The Mermaid Inn never impressed me through their cuisine. I will say that it is one of my favorite places to have a drink. They also deserve credit for being the first (to my knowledge) restaurant to serve Hitachino White Ale, a wonderful white that is spiced with Corriander and goes well with an orange slice. If you like wheat beers, this is a nice alternative.
Friday, March 04, 2005
Hearth
I took a chance going to Hearth last night, reason being, I brought my Dad, a person whom normally does not dig this sort of menu. But, being that it has received many accolades, I thought it was worth the risk. I am happy to say it paid off. From its ultra attentive yet un-intrusive service, to sophisticated yet approachable cuisine, Hearth is operating on all cylinders. Even chef Marc, during the busy evening, took time to inquire about our meal. He delivers inventive combinations that are not too smart for their own good. Although the description of some items on the menu were not appealing to me, the finished product left me pleasantly surprised.
Winter Bar Dining at the Gramercy Tavern
On a cold day in the middle of a nasty NYC winter, there is nothing better then sneaking in one of the city’s top restaurants for a late afternoon lunch at the bar. I have a few favorites, such as Gotham, Frank, Del Frisco’s or Pearl Oyster Bar, but recently, I spent a few blissful hours eating lunch at Gramercy Tavern. I ususally pass by at least once a week, and like the 6 train, the bar is jammed shoulder to shoulder down to the last inch. But recently, I walked by and to my amazement, it was a bit empty. Thank God for High School Winter Break. I saw my chance and before I even checked for my wallet, I was sitting at the bar with a big smile on my face. I started with a pint of Snow Dog Ale, to give my self a few mintutes to relax and digest my surroundings. That day there was one gentleman a few stools away enjoying the oysters followed by quail, and a few minutes later two more people arrived, a man and a woman. So there we were, all of us dining alone and happy as hell. I personally couldn’t think of a better place to be…I mean anywhere. Following my aperitif, I decided to start with the Portabella and Beet Tart with Goat Cheese and Arugula. When it arrived, I noticed that the natural beauty and imperfect shape of the Portabella had been compromised by a ring mold. Although the first bite was tasty and the balsamic syrup perfectly reduced, I had trouble appreciating the experience due to the form the chef decided on. It reminded me of when I stagged at A.O.C. and Suzanne Goin almost had a heart attack when I starting cutting baby Beets in a uniform manner, essentially destroying their natural appearance. The Goat Cheese and greens were served beside the tart, both very tasty and well seasoned. Following the tart, I opted to try the Sea Scallops. They were grilled to the perfect temperature, but over salted. To the point, I had to leave almost half the order uneaten. After a bit of contemplation, I decided to inform the bartender of this and requested he use this information at his discretion. He picked up on the fact I left a good portion of the meal for the trash and without even asking, prepared a cheese plate for my enjoyment. Right away I couldn’t help but think that this is a result of Danny Meyer’s dedication to his philosophy of “Enlightened Hospitality”. The cheeses were fantastic and gave me a few more minutes to enjoy the magic of good food in a remarkable restaurant.
Since the above visit, I have dined at the bar at Gramecry about ten times and am looking forward to ten more.
Since the above visit, I have dined at the bar at Gramecry about ten times and am looking forward to ten more.
A Great Steel Grill Burger
There are some places that as soon as you walk in, you can tell it is going to be great. There are no particular signs, except maybe the toys floating back and forth on strings, just an intangible element that tells your gut that this is a good spot. That is what I felt the first time I walked into Paul’s Place, a fantastic burger joint on 2nd ave. off St. Marks Place. As soon as you enter, without even looking, you smell the beautiful aroma of beef, feel the cozy, low key sensibility and hear the sizzle of the grill doing its magic. The first time, and every time following, I ordered the same thing. A Second Avenue Burger with Cajun Fries and a side of mayo (for the burger). But before I even get to that, I must say how much I love munching on the variety of sliced pickles placed on each table while I wait for the main event. Ok, back to the burger at hand. Now Paul’s offers many different and tasty sounding burgers, but like I said, I personally have never made it past their Second Avenue combination. Picture a juicy burger topped with American cheese, grilled tomato and most importantly a perfect slab of grilled ham. Top it with a mixture of ketchup and mayo, and you are in heaven…which is a good thing, because this is just the deadly combination that can send you there fast. The Cajun fries are also good. Although these are not great, they have a crisp coating and are seasoned just enough to be addicting once you start. The wait staff is what you would expect, attentive, but not out to do you any favors. But, you can always count on seeing Paul, a bit grayer these days, behind the counter watching every burger masterpiece go out. I even love that the menu states “dreamt of in 1979, established in 1989.
Sunday, February 27, 2005
Dos Caminos
Dos Caminos
Of all my restaurant week reservations, I expected Dos Caminos to be the least remarkable. Not that I do not believe in Steve Hanson and the BR Guest team, but just understand that there is a lot about this place outside of the food. Well, I was wrong. The entire experience was beyond my expectations. The guacamole with a touch of spice and ground to just right texture, was the best I remember in the City. Following that, we had the butternut squash empanada with goat cheese which was a unique and intelligent. The Kobe beef soft tacos were tender, smokey and nicely salted. The accompanying sauce was well spiced. Niman Ranch Pork Ribs were fantastic. I was just a Blue Smoke a few days earlier, and these ribs rose well above those. In the middle of all this, we had a visit from the Tequila Sommelier who helped pick out Corazón de Agave Añejo, which was wonderfuly smooth yet robust.
Of all my restaurant week reservations, I expected Dos Caminos to be the least remarkable. Not that I do not believe in Steve Hanson and the BR Guest team, but just understand that there is a lot about this place outside of the food. Well, I was wrong. The entire experience was beyond my expectations. The guacamole with a touch of spice and ground to just right texture, was the best I remember in the City. Following that, we had the butternut squash empanada with goat cheese which was a unique and intelligent. The Kobe beef soft tacos were tender, smokey and nicely salted. The accompanying sauce was well spiced. Niman Ranch Pork Ribs were fantastic. I was just a Blue Smoke a few days earlier, and these ribs rose well above those. In the middle of all this, we had a visit from the Tequila Sommelier who helped pick out Corazón de Agave Añejo, which was wonderfuly smooth yet robust.
Chicken Kebob
Prince Deli
There are many delis in the city and even more establishments that offer a Chicken Kebob sandwich. The number of places that offers these equals the number of different interpretation of the dish. I have been both fortunate and unfortunate enough to try some of the best and worst. Due to that fact, I am going to give a gauge for all of us who enjoy Chicken Kebob. Bereket on Houston is renown for their Turkish cuisine including some of the best tasting Kebob in NYC. But, I will say, recently I had a Chicken Kebob from Prince Deli on 43rd and 3rd avenue and it was surprisingly impressive. First, the chicken is marinated in Middle Eastern spices and char grilled on a skewer. Then instead of a pita, it is packaged in a wrap with everything on it, which is how I recommend it, (hummus, babagenush, hot sauce, salad, pickled cabbage, tabouli, tzasiki, pickles, etc. then wrapped, pressed in a sandwich press and cut and re-wrapped top on bottom. Sounds like a lot, but the passionate staff is careful to include the perfect balance of flavors and not to saturate the sandwich.
There are many delis in the city and even more establishments that offer a Chicken Kebob sandwich. The number of places that offers these equals the number of different interpretation of the dish. I have been both fortunate and unfortunate enough to try some of the best and worst. Due to that fact, I am going to give a gauge for all of us who enjoy Chicken Kebob. Bereket on Houston is renown for their Turkish cuisine including some of the best tasting Kebob in NYC. But, I will say, recently I had a Chicken Kebob from Prince Deli on 43rd and 3rd avenue and it was surprisingly impressive. First, the chicken is marinated in Middle Eastern spices and char grilled on a skewer. Then instead of a pita, it is packaged in a wrap with everything on it, which is how I recommend it, (hummus, babagenush, hot sauce, salad, pickled cabbage, tabouli, tzasiki, pickles, etc. then wrapped, pressed in a sandwich press and cut and re-wrapped top on bottom. Sounds like a lot, but the passionate staff is careful to include the perfect balance of flavors and not to saturate the sandwich.
Cipriani
Cipriani
42nd Street may be one of the furthest places one would think of Italy, but, I tell you, a fifteen minute stop in Cipriani Speciatilia is a quick serve Italian refuge for those who need their fix. Overall, the gourmet offers a fantastic variety of pastas, sandwiches and salads, but for me, when I am craving for an Italian fix, I go for their brilliant Prosciutto Crudo and Mozzarella de buffalo sandwich. The combination of salty Prosciutto and fresh Mozzarella on a crusty baguette is perfect . Add some rich Extra Virgin Olive Oil and you have a masterpiece through simplicity. Even the wax paper take out bag gives one a feeling of thoughtful care. A great example of the when intangible subtleties and secondary flavors permeate each other to make the whole greater then the sum of its parts.
42nd Street may be one of the furthest places one would think of Italy, but, I tell you, a fifteen minute stop in Cipriani Speciatilia is a quick serve Italian refuge for those who need their fix. Overall, the gourmet offers a fantastic variety of pastas, sandwiches and salads, but for me, when I am craving for an Italian fix, I go for their brilliant Prosciutto Crudo and Mozzarella de buffalo sandwich. The combination of salty Prosciutto and fresh Mozzarella on a crusty baguette is perfect . Add some rich Extra Virgin Olive Oil and you have a masterpiece through simplicity. Even the wax paper take out bag gives one a feeling of thoughtful care. A great example of the when intangible subtleties and secondary flavors permeate each other to make the whole greater then the sum of its parts.
Late night slice on upper east
Three J’s
The late night crawl near 79th and 2nd leaves a well indulged partier with few options when it comes to feeding their face…a must at 3am. One recent evening, I found myself in a panic with hunger due to the fact that the all the diners including, the infamous Jackson Hole burger joint were closed and every other known food establishment were also dark. That is when I stumbled, unfortunately that is meant literally, on Three J’s Pizza on 83rd and 2nd. As usual, I over ordered getting three slices to go and one for the two block walk home. My first bite was met with warm oil, a nice coating of cheese and an al fresco tomato sauce. This was a literal eye opener being it was after 3am. When I arrived home, I ate the three remaining pieces and even though I was fading, the slices lived up to the balance of flavor I remembered just a few short minutes earlier. Over all, Three J’s reminds me of a combination of Joe’s on Bleecker and Eat at Joes on Second Avenue…two very good pies. Check it out, you won’t be disappointed.
The late night crawl near 79th and 2nd leaves a well indulged partier with few options when it comes to feeding their face…a must at 3am. One recent evening, I found myself in a panic with hunger due to the fact that the all the diners including, the infamous Jackson Hole burger joint were closed and every other known food establishment were also dark. That is when I stumbled, unfortunately that is meant literally, on Three J’s Pizza on 83rd and 2nd. As usual, I over ordered getting three slices to go and one for the two block walk home. My first bite was met with warm oil, a nice coating of cheese and an al fresco tomato sauce. This was a literal eye opener being it was after 3am. When I arrived home, I ate the three remaining pieces and even though I was fading, the slices lived up to the balance of flavor I remembered just a few short minutes earlier. Over all, Three J’s reminds me of a combination of Joe’s on Bleecker and Eat at Joes on Second Avenue…two very good pies. Check it out, you won’t be disappointed.
Thursday, January 27, 2005
Coffee - NYC vs. LA
Back from LA now almost 3 months and still have not come close to finding a good rich cup of coffee. For those out there that live and die by the brew, or those whom just appreciate artisinal practices, should stop by Kings Road Cafe in Los Angeles. I attribute their success to many individual details executed in perfect symphony. At Kings Road, the owner Lawrence Casperson roasts the beans on presise. They also grind just prior to brewing and each cup is brewed indvidually as though they were preparing an Espresso. One other interesting note is the focus on serving the coffe at the correct temprature. All these elements and pratices result in a beautiful and robust cup of coffee that can be compared to a great cigar or rich chocolate. Beware, once you have tried Kings Road, everything else will just be a disappointment.
A.O.C. - Los Angeles
A.O.C. – 8022 W. Third Street, Los Angeles, CA
For anyone who really knows food, Appellation d’Origine Controlee, a.k.a., AOC, by definition understand they are destined for a superior dining experience. This is simply because AOC is the elite standard of excellence in food preparation. Now, for all the rest of us who can’t rely on knowing culinary jargon, rely on another name meaning the same…Suzanne Goin. Ms. Goin is the Chef/Owner of this new LA culinary must and a visionary talent. Not a surprise considering her recent James Beard Award nomination.
The second opening after the much acclaimed Lucques, Goin and her partner Caroline Styne have once again met the need in the market with inventive cuisine and a sophisticated décor. The vibe from the moment you walk into A.O.C is intoxicating. At the bar, Oenophiles are in heaven tasting some of the fifty selections by the glass assembled by Ms. Styne. The adjoining dinning room is filled with both studio execs and foodies rubber necking on the fumes of the countless of small plates whisking by. The action continues at the charcuterie bar, where even during a busy Saturday night, you can view the chef slicing Sopressata, or creating a cheese plate masterpiece herself.
With her bold innovations on flavors coupled with simple cooking methods, classic dishes re-stimulate many jaded palates and have diners chattering about the menu not the Oscars.
From the sauté and grill stations, guests indulge in Veal saltimbocca with mozzarella. The veal is sliced so thin, the kitchen staff needs bifocals to handle it. The Lamb cooked over an open flame grill also wood fueled is wonderfully tender and accompanied with a feta salsa verde adding a perfect rich and salty compliment. Foie Gras Terrine with Sweet and Sour Prunes really stands out with by maintaining the flavor of each of ingredient which is often lost in the terrine process, while capturing a lovely velvety texture. Some of the richer dishes come out of the Apple wood burning over like the Salt Cod and Potato Gratin creamy with Tallegio cheese. The perfect combination of Brioche with Prosciutto, gruyere and egg is heaven…not easily done when having to cook an egg to temperature in a 600 degree oven.
Overall, Suzanne Goin presents a classic style of Tapas with what else, but AOC. Couple this with the vast wine selection for pairing, and A.O.C.becomes a weekly reservation.
For anyone who really knows food, Appellation d’Origine Controlee, a.k.a., AOC, by definition understand they are destined for a superior dining experience. This is simply because AOC is the elite standard of excellence in food preparation. Now, for all the rest of us who can’t rely on knowing culinary jargon, rely on another name meaning the same…Suzanne Goin. Ms. Goin is the Chef/Owner of this new LA culinary must and a visionary talent. Not a surprise considering her recent James Beard Award nomination.
The second opening after the much acclaimed Lucques, Goin and her partner Caroline Styne have once again met the need in the market with inventive cuisine and a sophisticated décor. The vibe from the moment you walk into A.O.C is intoxicating. At the bar, Oenophiles are in heaven tasting some of the fifty selections by the glass assembled by Ms. Styne. The adjoining dinning room is filled with both studio execs and foodies rubber necking on the fumes of the countless of small plates whisking by. The action continues at the charcuterie bar, where even during a busy Saturday night, you can view the chef slicing Sopressata, or creating a cheese plate masterpiece herself.
With her bold innovations on flavors coupled with simple cooking methods, classic dishes re-stimulate many jaded palates and have diners chattering about the menu not the Oscars.
From the sauté and grill stations, guests indulge in Veal saltimbocca with mozzarella. The veal is sliced so thin, the kitchen staff needs bifocals to handle it. The Lamb cooked over an open flame grill also wood fueled is wonderfully tender and accompanied with a feta salsa verde adding a perfect rich and salty compliment. Foie Gras Terrine with Sweet and Sour Prunes really stands out with by maintaining the flavor of each of ingredient which is often lost in the terrine process, while capturing a lovely velvety texture. Some of the richer dishes come out of the Apple wood burning over like the Salt Cod and Potato Gratin creamy with Tallegio cheese. The perfect combination of Brioche with Prosciutto, gruyere and egg is heaven…not easily done when having to cook an egg to temperature in a 600 degree oven.
Overall, Suzanne Goin presents a classic style of Tapas with what else, but AOC. Couple this with the vast wine selection for pairing, and A.O.C.becomes a weekly reservation.
Italian in LA
IL Capriccio on Vermont
Little do most people know that making a right off of Vermont halfway between Franklin and Hollywood will transport you to the Bensonhurst Brooklyn…but it soon becomes apparent when you enter Il Capriccio where simple décor and holiday lights set the festive mood. This inviting mom and pop classic Italian kitchen is a refuge for east coasters yearning for real Italian food in a warm environment. While Tony in the kitchen stays true to the old country cooking philosophy using the best ingredients cooked to perfection, his wife Rosemary exudes her mother like quality welcoming each an every guest.
After all that, Il Capriccio is really about the food. Whether it be the Calamari Fritti cooked and seasoned perfectly, or the sumptuous Penne with Lamb and Eggplant prepared with juicy pieces of lamb browned and full of flavor, Tony delivers food that you can’t help interrupting you neighboring tables to rave about.
The wait staff is also pleasant and knowledgeable, recommending the many specials like the The Trilogy; grilled and sauteed lamb, sirloin and chicken, finished in a light red wine reduction and sautéed spinach. Not only was this tasty, but each meat was cooked to its individual optimal temperature. It is this careful attention to detail not often seen outside of French cuisine or top tier dinning establishments.
As for the staples, the Caprese salad is wonderful and lightly dressed so not to overshadow some of the best fresh mozzarella in LA. The Chicken Picata delivers a nice portion flavored just right. The linguini with seafood is overflowing with mussels, scallops and shrimp cooked just until done in a rich tomato sauce. Dessert is easy, Crème Brulee or Tiramisu. That is of course if you have room. And to add more delight to this fantastic dining experience, patrons have the option to bring along their own wine to be enjoyed at no corkage fee.
Il Capriccio is a must for great Italian food and full of old Hollywood charm.
P.S. Don’t look twice, but Tony does bear a strong resemblance to another Italian Tony who loves his food. Hey, you never know, at these prices, someone has to be paying the rent.
Note: since this review ownership has changed, so let's hope for the best!
Little do most people know that making a right off of Vermont halfway between Franklin and Hollywood will transport you to the Bensonhurst Brooklyn…but it soon becomes apparent when you enter Il Capriccio where simple décor and holiday lights set the festive mood. This inviting mom and pop classic Italian kitchen is a refuge for east coasters yearning for real Italian food in a warm environment. While Tony in the kitchen stays true to the old country cooking philosophy using the best ingredients cooked to perfection, his wife Rosemary exudes her mother like quality welcoming each an every guest.
After all that, Il Capriccio is really about the food. Whether it be the Calamari Fritti cooked and seasoned perfectly, or the sumptuous Penne with Lamb and Eggplant prepared with juicy pieces of lamb browned and full of flavor, Tony delivers food that you can’t help interrupting you neighboring tables to rave about.
The wait staff is also pleasant and knowledgeable, recommending the many specials like the The Trilogy; grilled and sauteed lamb, sirloin and chicken, finished in a light red wine reduction and sautéed spinach. Not only was this tasty, but each meat was cooked to its individual optimal temperature. It is this careful attention to detail not often seen outside of French cuisine or top tier dinning establishments.
As for the staples, the Caprese salad is wonderful and lightly dressed so not to overshadow some of the best fresh mozzarella in LA. The Chicken Picata delivers a nice portion flavored just right. The linguini with seafood is overflowing with mussels, scallops and shrimp cooked just until done in a rich tomato sauce. Dessert is easy, Crème Brulee or Tiramisu. That is of course if you have room. And to add more delight to this fantastic dining experience, patrons have the option to bring along their own wine to be enjoyed at no corkage fee.
Il Capriccio is a must for great Italian food and full of old Hollywood charm.
P.S. Don’t look twice, but Tony does bear a strong resemblance to another Italian Tony who loves his food. Hey, you never know, at these prices, someone has to be paying the rent.
Note: since this review ownership has changed, so let's hope for the best!
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