Friday, March 04, 2005

Hearth

I took a chance going to Hearth last night, reason being, I brought my Dad, a person whom normally does not dig this sort of menu. But, being that it has received many accolades, I thought it was worth the risk. I am happy to say it paid off. From its ultra attentive yet un-intrusive service, to sophisticated yet approachable cuisine, Hearth is operating on all cylinders. Even chef Marc, during the busy evening, took time to inquire about our meal. He delivers inventive combinations that are not too smart for their own good. Although the description of some items on the menu were not appealing to me, the finished product left me pleasantly surprised.

Winter Bar Dining at the Gramercy Tavern

On a cold day in the middle of a nasty NYC winter, there is nothing better then sneaking in one of the city’s top restaurants for a late afternoon lunch at the bar. I have a few favorites, such as Gotham, Frank, Del Frisco’s or Pearl Oyster Bar, but recently, I spent a few blissful hours eating lunch at Gramercy Tavern. I ususally pass by at least once a week, and like the 6 train, the bar is jammed shoulder to shoulder down to the last inch. But recently, I walked by and to my amazement, it was a bit empty. Thank God for High School Winter Break. I saw my chance and before I even checked for my wallet, I was sitting at the bar with a big smile on my face. I started with a pint of Snow Dog Ale, to give my self a few mintutes to relax and digest my surroundings. That day there was one gentleman a few stools away enjoying the oysters followed by quail, and a few minutes later two more people arrived, a man and a woman. So there we were, all of us dining alone and happy as hell. I personally couldn’t think of a better place to be…I mean anywhere. Following my aperitif, I decided to start with the Portabella and Beet Tart with Goat Cheese and Arugula. When it arrived, I noticed that the natural beauty and imperfect shape of the Portabella had been compromised by a ring mold. Although the first bite was tasty and the balsamic syrup perfectly reduced, I had trouble appreciating the experience due to the form the chef decided on. It reminded me of when I stagged at A.O.C. and Suzanne Goin almost had a heart attack when I starting cutting baby Beets in a uniform manner, essentially destroying their natural appearance. The Goat Cheese and greens were served beside the tart, both very tasty and well seasoned. Following the tart, I opted to try the Sea Scallops. They were grilled to the perfect temperature, but over salted. To the point, I had to leave almost half the order uneaten. After a bit of contemplation, I decided to inform the bartender of this and requested he use this information at his discretion. He picked up on the fact I left a good portion of the meal for the trash and without even asking, prepared a cheese plate for my enjoyment. Right away I couldn’t help but think that this is a result of Danny Meyer’s dedication to his philosophy of “Enlightened Hospitality”. The cheeses were fantastic and gave me a few more minutes to enjoy the magic of good food in a remarkable restaurant.

Since the above visit, I have dined at the bar at Gramecry about ten times and am looking forward to ten more.

A Great Steel Grill Burger

There are some places that as soon as you walk in, you can tell it is going to be great. There are no particular signs, except maybe the toys floating back and forth on strings, just an intangible element that tells your gut that this is a good spot. That is what I felt the first time I walked into Paul’s Place, a fantastic burger joint on 2nd ave. off St. Marks Place. As soon as you enter, without even looking, you smell the beautiful aroma of beef, feel the cozy, low key sensibility and hear the sizzle of the grill doing its magic. The first time, and every time following, I ordered the same thing. A Second Avenue Burger with Cajun Fries and a side of mayo (for the burger). But before I even get to that, I must say how much I love munching on the variety of sliced pickles placed on each table while I wait for the main event. Ok, back to the burger at hand. Now Paul’s offers many different and tasty sounding burgers, but like I said, I personally have never made it past their Second Avenue combination. Picture a juicy burger topped with American cheese, grilled tomato and most importantly a perfect slab of grilled ham. Top it with a mixture of ketchup and mayo, and you are in heaven…which is a good thing, because this is just the deadly combination that can send you there fast. The Cajun fries are also good. Although these are not great, they have a crisp coating and are seasoned just enough to be addicting once you start. The wait staff is what you would expect, attentive, but not out to do you any favors. But, you can always count on seeing Paul, a bit grayer these days, behind the counter watching every burger masterpiece go out. I even love that the menu states “dreamt of in 1979, established in 1989.