There has been a lot of excitement around the opening of Laurent Tourondel's west coast outpost of BLT Steak. Like most restaurants that open in LA from a celeb chef, the population comprised of follow the leader types line up to go, but really have no reason for this other then it is the in thing to do. Osteria Mozza, the Batali-Silverton collaboration is probably the definition of this affect. Sad. But, on a friend's recommendation, I kept it in mind. Ironically, she did tell me she loved it and the fish was the star. No surprise considering Chef Tourondel's history via Manhattan short live yet notable restaurant Cello.
So, after that rant, you will probably ask how I arrived there so soon after opening?? Well, a friend invited me to went downtown to the opening of Bacaro Wine Bar downton, but when the line was 50 deep, we headed off. So now while sitting at Library Bar having a beer contemplating what happened to our night , Suzanne suggested that we make a late night trip to BLT. I agreed it would be the perfect time to try, late dining NYC style. . I am so glad we did.
Upon walking into BLT Steak, you find that the design team has successfully captured a balance of polished decor with an accessible comfort to it. As a result, BLT attracts a diverse crowd yet united by their focus on food a bit more then scene. The restaurant is inviting whether you are dining at a table, as a group in the private back room, or alone at the bar which is such a welcoming space that I am sure my next few trips will be spent dining there, much like many of NYC's great restaurants like Gotham Bar and Grill, Gramercy Tavern, etc.
After being seated we reviewed the menu and wine list, both read nicely. I decided on the Hamachi salad to start and the 22oz Ribeye with poached green beans and potato gratin on the side. Well, late night dining does have its disadvantages as I experienced when the waiter informed me that they were out of the Ribeye. My replacement was the 16oz New York...not a cut I typically get.
Two fantastic surprises came out prior to the my order. First was a beautifully crusty Pop-over cheese bread which is addicting. They are big as in softball. But then the waiter set down a huge Italian-made tin salt shaker that was the size of a beer stein. I was sort of shocked for a second, but then immediately tore into one of the warm, eggy Gruyère-topped popovers, slathered on some butter, grabbed that salt shaker and sprinkled on the sea salt.
Following that, BLT serves a warm chicken liver spread in a mason jar with La Brea Bakery sourdough. This is amazing and am tempted to go back daily if I did not think I would be dead in a week.
The Hamachi Salad arrived looking wonderful with in a yuzu vinaigrette and garnished with Jalapeno. Under the fish was a avocado puree. Overall, although not being a unique combination, it was well executed and will satisfy your craving. I still remain mixed on including the avocado, not sure if it adds anything.
Now for the main event. The steak arrived with a richly charred exterior and topped with a disc of herb butter...which I removed immediately so not to alter the flavor. The poached greens had beautiful color and were cooked perfectly. The potato gratin also well executed, as it should with such naughty ingredients. I cut into the New York and it was medium rare as ordered and a bit on the rarer side. I have to say, the first bite confirmed why Laurent Tourondel is achieving such success. The steak was tender, juicy and the exterior exploding with amazing flavor; a result of saltiness and natural well-charred flavor. This really shows that simplicity executed perfectly is hard to beat. We had a glass of The Prisoner, which was a nice compliment. BLT does offer side sauces for the steak including a red wine version which is actually quite nice, but I am a purist, especially on the first try.
Since the above experience, I have been back to BLT three time, sitting at bar each time (great place to watch a game). Each time the steak and sides have been consistently great and equal to my first impression. The one disappointing note came on the seafood front when I had shrimp cocktail that were over cooked and tough, then swordfish with stewed tomato and olive oil which had great flavor, only to be spoiled by also being over cooked. They natural oil expected to be released from the fish was gone due to temperature and therefore never had the chance to marry with the accompanying dressing.
BLT is a welcome addition to the L.A. steak scene which tends to be either old school via Mastros or too cool for school via STK or Cut. BLT has achieved a true balance in both scene and cuisine.
