Thursday, January 27, 2005

A.O.C. - Los Angeles

A.O.C. – 8022 W. Third Street, Los Angeles, CA


For anyone who really knows food, Appellation d’Origine Controlee, a.k.a., AOC, by definition understand they are destined for a superior dining experience. This is simply because AOC is the elite standard of excellence in food preparation. Now, for all the rest of us who can’t rely on knowing culinary jargon, rely on another name meaning the same…Suzanne Goin. Ms. Goin is the Chef/Owner of this new LA culinary must and a visionary talent. Not a surprise considering her recent James Beard Award nomination.

The second opening after the much acclaimed Lucques, Goin and her partner Caroline Styne have once again met the need in the market with inventive cuisine and a sophisticated décor. The vibe from the moment you walk into A.O.C is intoxicating. At the bar, Oenophiles are in heaven tasting some of the fifty selections by the glass assembled by Ms. Styne. The adjoining dinning room is filled with both studio execs and foodies rubber necking on the fumes of the countless of small plates whisking by. The action continues at the charcuterie bar, where even during a busy Saturday night, you can view the chef slicing Sopressata, or creating a cheese plate masterpiece herself.

With her bold innovations on flavors coupled with simple cooking methods, classic dishes re-stimulate many jaded palates and have diners chattering about the menu not the Oscars.

From the sauté and grill stations, guests indulge in Veal saltimbocca with mozzarella. The veal is sliced so thin, the kitchen staff needs bifocals to handle it. The Lamb cooked over an open flame grill also wood fueled is wonderfully tender and accompanied with a feta salsa verde adding a perfect rich and salty compliment. Foie Gras Terrine with Sweet and Sour Prunes really stands out with by maintaining the flavor of each of ingredient which is often lost in the terrine process, while capturing a lovely velvety texture. Some of the richer dishes come out of the Apple wood burning over like the Salt Cod and Potato Gratin creamy with Tallegio cheese. The perfect combination of Brioche with Prosciutto, gruyere and egg is heaven…not easily done when having to cook an egg to temperature in a 600 degree oven.

Overall, Suzanne Goin presents a classic style of Tapas with what else, but AOC. Couple this with the vast wine selection for pairing, and A.O.C.becomes a weekly reservation.

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