Mozza

Mozza, the much anticipated Mario Batali/Nancy Silverton pizza place and Osteria opened just over two weeks ago. I had the chance to go 4 days in, and it was already packed. At this time, only the pizza side is open but it was enough to give a good sense of what is to come. The room has two bars, one a wine bar and the other, a pizza bar (right in front of the wood burning pizza oven). Helming the pizza bar was Nancy herself, a very good sign that this is not some novelty for namesake.

I sat at the wine bar and started with a glass of Alianico. Alianico is an Italian varietal I had not had before, but was very nice with big tannins, dark fruits and a bit of Annise. The bartender was knowledgable providing meaningful insight and overall good hospitality. Ok, so now to the main event...the pizza.

The menu offers quite a few different types of pizza: Classic Pizza Margherita, Fennel sauaage and red onion, Wild mushroom with Fontina and Tallegio, and finally a pie garnished with Lardo.

I decided on a pizza featuring salumi, chilis and mozzarella. This wouldn't have been my first choice but because I was enjoying the wine so much, I chose a pie that would with enough spice to compliment. Typically, my first evaluation is based on the establishments most simple offering such as a Margherita.

From ordering to the time my pizza arrived was a very acceptable 15 minutes. Upon arrival, the first thing I noticed was the outer crust as a bigger then expected, meaning, the area with sauce and cheese etc. started further from the edge and obviously not the focus. The pie was cooked well evidenced by a nicely charred bottom and crisp texture. This reminded me a quite a bit of Una Pizza Nepoletana in the East Village of Manhattan sans the Olive Oil splash finish.

At first bite, the crust took center stage and the best part of the initial taste. It was crisp and tender with just enough salt to be equally enjoyable on its own. The salumi was ok, but lacked the flavoring to be considered the star of the pie. The sauce was also very good, but not in the same league as a place like DiFara. The cheese was also tasty and not overbearing, but a nice compliment to the other flavors. Due to the super hot oven, the salumi also had a nice crunch to it at times.

One indication of how serious Nancy is taking this new endeavor was when she informed the staff that there would be no pizza available because the "dough is being bad" and therefore does not meet her standards.

Overall, Mozza is off to a good start, but still needs some work when it comes to ingredients and attention to detail. For example, a simple splash of Olive Oil and dusing of Grano Padano just prior to serving would have made a big difference.

Village Pizza - Los Angeles

Being from NYC, I know that most will say I am overly critical of pizza, but I still feel compelled to write my view of pizza in LA, starting with the local favorite. I have been to Village Pizza on Larchmont a few times, and I have been deeply disappointed each time. I am a realist, so I do not expect magic, but do expect that things that can be controlled are done right. For example, the pizza is always undercooked resulting in a crust being flimsy and doughy. To make matters worse, their is way too much cheese weighing down crust and overwhelming all other ingredients. I understand that the dough is compsomised because of the CA water, and the sauce is not great because it is a bad reciepe, but you can still make a decent pie if you at least take care in things you can control such as the above.

Another pizza joint that gets good reviews is Albano's Brooklyn Pizza. I have been to Albano's a bunch of times and have had a pretty good experience. The flavor is pretty good and the pies are usually cooked well. The biggest problem with Albano's is their inconsistency. I am not sure the reason, but I would most likely say absentee management.