Thursday, January 27, 2005
Coffee - NYC vs. LA
Back from LA now almost 3 months and still have not come close to finding a good rich cup of coffee. For those out there that live and die by the brew, or those whom just appreciate artisinal practices, should stop by Kings Road Cafe in Los Angeles. I attribute their success to many individual details executed in perfect symphony. At Kings Road, the owner Lawrence Casperson roasts the beans on presise. They also grind just prior to brewing and each cup is brewed indvidually as though they were preparing an Espresso. One other interesting note is the focus on serving the coffe at the correct temprature. All these elements and pratices result in a beautiful and robust cup of coffee that can be compared to a great cigar or rich chocolate. Beware, once you have tried Kings Road, everything else will just be a disappointment.
A.O.C. - Los Angeles
A.O.C. – 8022 W. Third Street, Los Angeles, CA
For anyone who really knows food, Appellation d’Origine Controlee, a.k.a., AOC, by definition understand they are destined for a superior dining experience. This is simply because AOC is the elite standard of excellence in food preparation. Now, for all the rest of us who can’t rely on knowing culinary jargon, rely on another name meaning the same…Suzanne Goin. Ms. Goin is the Chef/Owner of this new LA culinary must and a visionary talent. Not a surprise considering her recent James Beard Award nomination.
The second opening after the much acclaimed Lucques, Goin and her partner Caroline Styne have once again met the need in the market with inventive cuisine and a sophisticated décor. The vibe from the moment you walk into A.O.C is intoxicating. At the bar, Oenophiles are in heaven tasting some of the fifty selections by the glass assembled by Ms. Styne. The adjoining dinning room is filled with both studio execs and foodies rubber necking on the fumes of the countless of small plates whisking by. The action continues at the charcuterie bar, where even during a busy Saturday night, you can view the chef slicing Sopressata, or creating a cheese plate masterpiece herself.
With her bold innovations on flavors coupled with simple cooking methods, classic dishes re-stimulate many jaded palates and have diners chattering about the menu not the Oscars.
From the sauté and grill stations, guests indulge in Veal saltimbocca with mozzarella. The veal is sliced so thin, the kitchen staff needs bifocals to handle it. The Lamb cooked over an open flame grill also wood fueled is wonderfully tender and accompanied with a feta salsa verde adding a perfect rich and salty compliment. Foie Gras Terrine with Sweet and Sour Prunes really stands out with by maintaining the flavor of each of ingredient which is often lost in the terrine process, while capturing a lovely velvety texture. Some of the richer dishes come out of the Apple wood burning over like the Salt Cod and Potato Gratin creamy with Tallegio cheese. The perfect combination of Brioche with Prosciutto, gruyere and egg is heaven…not easily done when having to cook an egg to temperature in a 600 degree oven.
Overall, Suzanne Goin presents a classic style of Tapas with what else, but AOC. Couple this with the vast wine selection for pairing, and A.O.C.becomes a weekly reservation.
For anyone who really knows food, Appellation d’Origine Controlee, a.k.a., AOC, by definition understand they are destined for a superior dining experience. This is simply because AOC is the elite standard of excellence in food preparation. Now, for all the rest of us who can’t rely on knowing culinary jargon, rely on another name meaning the same…Suzanne Goin. Ms. Goin is the Chef/Owner of this new LA culinary must and a visionary talent. Not a surprise considering her recent James Beard Award nomination.
The second opening after the much acclaimed Lucques, Goin and her partner Caroline Styne have once again met the need in the market with inventive cuisine and a sophisticated décor. The vibe from the moment you walk into A.O.C is intoxicating. At the bar, Oenophiles are in heaven tasting some of the fifty selections by the glass assembled by Ms. Styne. The adjoining dinning room is filled with both studio execs and foodies rubber necking on the fumes of the countless of small plates whisking by. The action continues at the charcuterie bar, where even during a busy Saturday night, you can view the chef slicing Sopressata, or creating a cheese plate masterpiece herself.
With her bold innovations on flavors coupled with simple cooking methods, classic dishes re-stimulate many jaded palates and have diners chattering about the menu not the Oscars.
From the sauté and grill stations, guests indulge in Veal saltimbocca with mozzarella. The veal is sliced so thin, the kitchen staff needs bifocals to handle it. The Lamb cooked over an open flame grill also wood fueled is wonderfully tender and accompanied with a feta salsa verde adding a perfect rich and salty compliment. Foie Gras Terrine with Sweet and Sour Prunes really stands out with by maintaining the flavor of each of ingredient which is often lost in the terrine process, while capturing a lovely velvety texture. Some of the richer dishes come out of the Apple wood burning over like the Salt Cod and Potato Gratin creamy with Tallegio cheese. The perfect combination of Brioche with Prosciutto, gruyere and egg is heaven…not easily done when having to cook an egg to temperature in a 600 degree oven.
Overall, Suzanne Goin presents a classic style of Tapas with what else, but AOC. Couple this with the vast wine selection for pairing, and A.O.C.becomes a weekly reservation.
Italian in LA
IL Capriccio on Vermont
Little do most people know that making a right off of Vermont halfway between Franklin and Hollywood will transport you to the Bensonhurst Brooklyn…but it soon becomes apparent when you enter Il Capriccio where simple décor and holiday lights set the festive mood. This inviting mom and pop classic Italian kitchen is a refuge for east coasters yearning for real Italian food in a warm environment. While Tony in the kitchen stays true to the old country cooking philosophy using the best ingredients cooked to perfection, his wife Rosemary exudes her mother like quality welcoming each an every guest.
After all that, Il Capriccio is really about the food. Whether it be the Calamari Fritti cooked and seasoned perfectly, or the sumptuous Penne with Lamb and Eggplant prepared with juicy pieces of lamb browned and full of flavor, Tony delivers food that you can’t help interrupting you neighboring tables to rave about.
The wait staff is also pleasant and knowledgeable, recommending the many specials like the The Trilogy; grilled and sauteed lamb, sirloin and chicken, finished in a light red wine reduction and sautéed spinach. Not only was this tasty, but each meat was cooked to its individual optimal temperature. It is this careful attention to detail not often seen outside of French cuisine or top tier dinning establishments.
As for the staples, the Caprese salad is wonderful and lightly dressed so not to overshadow some of the best fresh mozzarella in LA. The Chicken Picata delivers a nice portion flavored just right. The linguini with seafood is overflowing with mussels, scallops and shrimp cooked just until done in a rich tomato sauce. Dessert is easy, Crème Brulee or Tiramisu. That is of course if you have room. And to add more delight to this fantastic dining experience, patrons have the option to bring along their own wine to be enjoyed at no corkage fee.
Il Capriccio is a must for great Italian food and full of old Hollywood charm.
P.S. Don’t look twice, but Tony does bear a strong resemblance to another Italian Tony who loves his food. Hey, you never know, at these prices, someone has to be paying the rent.
Note: since this review ownership has changed, so let's hope for the best!
Little do most people know that making a right off of Vermont halfway between Franklin and Hollywood will transport you to the Bensonhurst Brooklyn…but it soon becomes apparent when you enter Il Capriccio where simple décor and holiday lights set the festive mood. This inviting mom and pop classic Italian kitchen is a refuge for east coasters yearning for real Italian food in a warm environment. While Tony in the kitchen stays true to the old country cooking philosophy using the best ingredients cooked to perfection, his wife Rosemary exudes her mother like quality welcoming each an every guest.
After all that, Il Capriccio is really about the food. Whether it be the Calamari Fritti cooked and seasoned perfectly, or the sumptuous Penne with Lamb and Eggplant prepared with juicy pieces of lamb browned and full of flavor, Tony delivers food that you can’t help interrupting you neighboring tables to rave about.
The wait staff is also pleasant and knowledgeable, recommending the many specials like the The Trilogy; grilled and sauteed lamb, sirloin and chicken, finished in a light red wine reduction and sautéed spinach. Not only was this tasty, but each meat was cooked to its individual optimal temperature. It is this careful attention to detail not often seen outside of French cuisine or top tier dinning establishments.
As for the staples, the Caprese salad is wonderful and lightly dressed so not to overshadow some of the best fresh mozzarella in LA. The Chicken Picata delivers a nice portion flavored just right. The linguini with seafood is overflowing with mussels, scallops and shrimp cooked just until done in a rich tomato sauce. Dessert is easy, Crème Brulee or Tiramisu. That is of course if you have room. And to add more delight to this fantastic dining experience, patrons have the option to bring along their own wine to be enjoyed at no corkage fee.
Il Capriccio is a must for great Italian food and full of old Hollywood charm.
P.S. Don’t look twice, but Tony does bear a strong resemblance to another Italian Tony who loves his food. Hey, you never know, at these prices, someone has to be paying the rent.
Note: since this review ownership has changed, so let's hope for the best!
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