Cecconi's

The English may not be known for their food, but they are masters at service.  Even during the chaotic opening days, somehow Cecconi's service over delivers exuding a appealing balance of sophistication and humbleness.  It is this genuine concern for their guest's well being that motivates you to route for them rather then criticize.. even when their are mishaps.  

Since I never made it past the bar, I cannot comment too much on the food except to say it is good enough and has potential.  The veal meatballs in tomato sauce are tasty, but unfortunately not mouth watering like the transcendent one from the original Craftbar in NYC.  The cured meats, salami and focaccia plate was nice, and the stand out was the focaccia when dipped in their wonderful olive oil.  Lastly, the bay scallops (which are actually beautiful plump sea scallops) with pancetta were perfectly cooked.  When dealing with quality scallops like this, there is no need to mask them with the pancetta.  Aside from slightly overpowering the delicate scallop flavor, it also made the overall dish border on too salty.  As for wine, the Capestrano Montepulicano d'Abruzzo 2006 is a great value at $28 bottle.  

I guess simply put, it is nice to see a new place that has a strong pedigree and every reason to boast, be thoughtful and appreciative of the value of each customer. Unlike half the restaurants that open in Los Angeles that treat their customers as if they are doing them a favor by allowing them to dine there, Cecconi's is welcoming and a great addition to the neighborhood dining scene.  

ARB Pizza gives food courts a run for their money

After reading about the new Arb Pizza being a viable NYC style pizza place, I decided to try it.  I have to say I haven't been this disappointed in a long time.  To be honest, the only categories of pizza this slice can compete in are theme parks and mall food courts.  It fails in every way.  Too much cheese to cover up the tomato paste-heavy sauce and undercooked bread...called crust when done correctly. Upon setting eyes on the slice for the first time, the slice is even a dead match for the equally wide and long shape offered at Six Flags.  Save the 3 bucks, it is not even worth the floor they say you can throw it on if you don't like it.  

8oz

Govind Armstrong's new burger bar 8oz is nothing special...and I am not sure if that is a bad thing. I for one have had enough of the extreme burger craze. Between the over the top concoctions ala Foie Gras, and equally absurd prices with quite a few debuting over $30, it's all just too much. The biggest compliment I can pay to 8oz is that it is not trying to be something other then what it is, a neighborhood burger joint.

At 8oz, there are a good amount of burger choices. Aside from their signature 8oz, all the others are actually 6 ounces. You also get a selection of cheeses, fixins, with the classic style served simply with Iceberg lettuce, tomato, pickles and white onions. The prices are also very reasonable ranging from $10-$8 for burgers, $4 for sides, $1 for cheese, $2 for bacon etc.

In my opinion, there are two styles of burger patty; the thick and round patty and the flat thin patty with consistent thickness from end to end. Unlike great LA burgers from Comme Ca and Hungry Cat that reside in the round camp, the 8oz patty is flat and thin, kind or reminded me of Hubert Keller's Burger Bar in Vegas. Not to say it fast food thin, but very different then the thick round patty style. As a result, the first thing I noticed is that the 8oz burger is not juicy. For example, when I bite into the burger at Comme Ca or Hungry Cat, the thick and juicy center explodes and you can't help but have the wonderful juice from the meat drip down your arm. This is not the case here. The "8oz" burger that I had was good, and cooked an accurate medium rare, but tasted no different then from a decent backyard BBQ chef. Again, not necessarily a bad thing, but in the end, this burger does not have any sort of unique personality or attributes that make it something you crave for. One thing I did wish for was for the meat to be seasoned a bit more aggressively. The beef does sit center stage, but would be so much nicer with some salt. Also, I added Bel Paese, a nice cows milk cheese, but it did not stand out or add anything to the overall experience.

I would curious to know what the mix of meat vs. fat is for their burgers. This is obviously critical in achieving a leading burger. Especially in a time when chefs are experimenting with a broad array of meat mixes for their patties with combinations including Brisket, Sirloin and others. It doesn't appear that any interesting combination is part of the 8oz burger.

Note, only the 8oz is served on a La Brea Bakery bun. And, although this bun is just ok, it is better then the traditional McD's buns on the others.

I did have on order of fries which were not bad and at least crispy. Again, could have been seasoned a bit more. The real standout here was the homemade ketchup infused with Anise. Really really nice. This I would go back for.

There is a good selection of beers both draught and bottles and priced fairly starting at $5.

All that being said, what is going to make 8oz a success is the comfortable atmosphere and plentiful bar seating including a couple of flat screens. This is a real neighborhood place that will great to hang out with friends and have a bit. What this stretch of Melrose is in dire need of are pubs with good food, a good atmosphere and a few TVs to watch the games. 8oz delivers on all...and thank God, because if I have to go to El Guapo one more time to watch a game, I will kill myself.

In the end, 8oz provides a comfortable setting, good prices and a decent burger. I guess I just don't understand what Govind Armstrong thought was unique or especially tasty about the burgers in order to make it worthy of his name.

Pizzeria Bianco

Some people claim this is the best pizza in the U.S. I am not sure if that is 100% accurate, but it is so good that who really cares. The crowd gathers daily at least an hour before opening, and by the time the doors open, the entire place is full with more still chomping at the bit. As part of the first group, I couldn't imagine how a place could serve the customers when they are all sat at once. The answer, 700 degree plus oven makes things cook a lot quicker. We started with to pies, th Wiseguy (right): Wood-roasted onion, house-smoked mozzarella, fennel sausage. A crowd favorite, but not my taste. I do have to say that even with not being a fan, this smokey combo delivers great balanced flavor without being too overwhelming.

The Margherita (above): Tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, basil. Really nice, and a pie that lets the ingredients speak for themselves. Simplicity at its best. Crust is really crispy yet with just the right chew.

Spiedini (above): Italian fontina wrapped in prosciutto di Parma, served warm. This was amazing and one of the best appetizers I have had.

And here's a pic from Bar Bianco (below), the adjacent watering hole serving really nice wines. If you are lucky, like me, you start and finish there.

PIZZERIA BIANCO
Location: 623 East Adams Street, Phoenix AZ 85004
Website: pizzeriabianco.com

East Village Goes To Temple

The East Village Goes to Temple

Leading the East Village’s new cuisine frontier is restaurateur Jenny Maeng with her well received Korean treasure Korean Temple. Opened in 2003 as her first venture in the restaurant business, Korean Temple has established itself as a favorite among locals.

When most New Yorkers think Korean, the stereotypical grand Korean Palaces of midtown’s Koreatown come to mind. According to Maeng, although these are a part of what Korea offers, she believes Korean dining could take on a more stylish and modern approach.

Maeng has remained true to simple principles that she believes has enabled her to succeed in what many consider the most competitive restaurant geography in the city.

Maeng believes that NYC’s East Village is ready to embrace Korean cuisine, and its trend setting population will be instrumental in the proliferation of Korean cuisine much like Chinese and Japanese in the past. This is Maeng’s overall goal…with Korean competition popping up on nearby blocks, she may be well on her way to achieving it.

Maeng believes that there are three elements that have led to your success. Offer authentic Korean cuisine. Inspire staff by example. Always treat the details like they are the main attraction.

Not only does Maeng’s beautiful smile welcome the guests and grace the front of the house, but she is the brainchild behind the menu development. During her normal 12-14 hour day, Maeng spends at least a third of that time re-creating the indigenous flavors that keep patron’s palates pleasantly surprised, and the other two thirds ensuring that in between every delicious bite, everything else is perfect.

Unlike many others, Maeng elects to hire servers with little or no prior experience. Reason being she says, “there are less bad habits to overcome in training.” Her philosophy is to lead and inspire her staff by her own example. Not and easy task, but an extremely effective communication method especially in a business where the intangible attributes can be most important.

One method to help achieve this has been her ability to create symphony in service among all employees. Maeng instills a strong of teamwork by empowering the staff with a feeling of ownership. By focusing on details from food to tiny adjustments in décor customers are reassured of Maeng’s presence even if not in plain sight.

Overall, Korean Temple demonstrates once again that the East Village is the nucleus of NYC’s restaurant evolution and newly crowned restaurateurs like Maeng are fueling the growth.

BLT Steak Los Angeles

There has been a lot of excitement around the opening of Laurent Tourondel's west coast outpost of BLT Steak. Like most restaurants that open in LA from a celeb chef, the population comprised of follow the leader types line up to go, but really have no reason for this other then it is the in thing to do. Osteria Mozza, the Batali-Silverton collaboration is probably the definition of this affect. Sad. But, on a friend's recommendation, I kept it in mind. Ironically, she did tell me she loved it and the fish was the star. No surprise considering Chef Tourondel's history via Manhattan short live yet notable restaurant Cello.

So, after that rant, you will probably ask how I arrived there so soon after opening?? Well, a friend invited me to went downtown to the opening of Bacaro Wine Bar downton, but when the line was 50 deep, we headed off. So now while sitting at Library Bar having a beer contemplating what happened to our night , Suzanne suggested that we make a late night trip to BLT. I agreed it would be the perfect time to try, late dining NYC style. . I am so glad we did.

Upon walking into BLT Steak, you find that the design team has successfully captured a balance of polished decor with an accessible comfort to it. As a result, BLT attracts a diverse crowd yet united by their focus on food a bit more then scene. The restaurant is inviting whether you are dining at a table, as a group in the private back room, or alone at the bar which is such a welcoming space that I am sure my next few trips will be spent dining there, much like many of NYC's great restaurants like Gotham Bar and Grill, Gramercy Tavern, etc.

After being seated we reviewed the menu and wine list, both read nicely. I decided on the Hamachi salad to start and the 22oz Ribeye with poached green beans and potato gratin on the side. Well, late night dining does have its disadvantages as I experienced when the waiter informed me that they were out of the Ribeye. My replacement was the 16oz New York...not a cut I typically get.

Two fantastic surprises came out prior to the my order. First was a beautifully crusty Pop-over cheese bread which is addicting. They are big as in softball. But then the waiter set down a huge Italian-made tin salt shaker that was the size of a beer stein. I was sort of shocked for a second, but then immediately tore into one of the warm, eggy Gruyère-topped popovers, slathered on some butter, grabbed that salt shaker and sprinkled on the sea salt.

Following that, BLT serves a warm chicken liver spread in a mason jar with La Brea Bakery sourdough. This is amazing and am tempted to go back daily if I did not think I would be dead in a week.

The Hamachi Salad arrived looking wonderful with in a yuzu vinaigrette and garnished with Jalapeno. Under the fish was a avocado puree. Overall, although not being a unique combination, it was well executed and will satisfy your craving. I still remain mixed on including the avocado, not sure if it adds anything.

Now for the main event. The steak arrived with a richly charred exterior and topped with a disc of herb butter...which I removed immediately so not to alter the flavor. The poached greens had beautiful color and were cooked perfectly. The potato gratin also well executed, as it should with such naughty ingredients. I cut into the New York and it was medium rare as ordered and a bit on the rarer side. I have to say, the first bite confirmed why Laurent Tourondel is achieving such success. The steak was tender, juicy and the exterior exploding with amazing flavor; a result of saltiness and natural well-charred flavor. This really shows that simplicity executed perfectly is hard to beat. We had a glass of The Prisoner, which was a nice compliment. BLT does offer side sauces for the steak including a red wine version which is actually quite nice, but I am a purist, especially on the first try.

Since the above experience, I have been back to BLT three time, sitting at bar each time (great place to watch a game). Each time the steak and sides have been consistently great and equal to my first impression. The one disappointing note came on the seafood front when I had shrimp cocktail that were over cooked and tough, then swordfish with stewed tomato and olive oil which had great flavor, only to be spoiled by also being over cooked. They natural oil expected to be released from the fish was gone due to temperature and therefore never had the chance to marry with the accompanying dressing.

BLT is a welcome addition to the L.A. steak scene which tends to be either old school via Mastros or too cool for school via STK or Cut. BLT has achieved a true balance in both scene and cuisine.

The Hungry Cat

Have you ever had one of those meals that was so good that if you walked outside and got hit by a bus, you really wouldn't be that mad. That is the potential at The Hungry Cat. If this hasn't happened to you, then you need to stop what you are doing and take a trip to The Hungry Cat...and bring a friend.

The Hungry Cat is the brainchild of Chef David Lentz and a tribute to New England cuisine. Ironically, my least favorite item on the menu is the one that most go there for, the Lobster Roll. It is not bad, but isn't in the same league as NYC lobster palaces such as Pearl Oyster Bar, or Mary's Fish Camp. Not much in life is better then a Guinness and Lobster Roll at Pearl. Really remarkable. Anyway, back to our story.

OK, so from my perspective, a great meal is a result of a confluence of factors executed perfectly. Company you go with, service/server enthusiasm, pace, food, and choice of seat. First and foremost, pick the right person for the right dining experience. This is critical to having a great meal, so important, I treat is like casting a movie. The person you invite must be able to appreciate the cuisine, decor, price, sensibility etc. Going with the wrong person is a recipe for misery.

Let me cut to the chase and give you the winning combo for the ultimate Hungry Cat meal.
LUNCH is my ideal time

Order a draught beer and take a moment to soak up the atmosphere. Prepare for what is coming.

1. Sit at the bar. Greatest place to see take in all the action and get the inside scoop on all the hidden gems. It is social, and ensures fantastic service. Bartenders are much more interactive by nature and the ones at The Hungry Cat are proud of their job. (Except once when I had this girl who was uninformed and a total bitch. Ruined the whole meal).

2. Bring a friend who likes to share and can appreciate beer and wine pairings.

3. Start with a raw bar combo platter of your choice. Oysters, clams, lobster shrimp and either a nice Kronenbourg or Kuentz-Bas Pinot Riesling. Great way to acclimate to the environment and get started.

4. Next split the PUG burger medium rare sans Avocado. With all the talk of Father's Office and other places, this to me is by far the BEST BURGER in LA. The blue cheese is beautifully sharp and creamy and the bacon is thickly cut and both crispy and tender all stacked on a La Brea Bakery roll that has the integrity to hold its own. I feel the Avocado actually dilutes the combination and always subtract it. Also, ask them to split the burger in the kitchen to avoid destroying the integrity. With this I usually have a Craftsman Brewing Co. Ale.

5. Lastly, split the Fish Tacos with Jicama slaw. The tortillas are fragrant and with just the right char on them. They fish changes and is always nicely seasoned and wonderfully moist. The refreshing Jicama slaw is a great compliment. I usually stick to a beer on this too .

6. Consider a dessert, Beignets with the Blackberry Compote are my favorites.

Overall, The Hungry Cat is a sliver of paradise and one that I recommend as a regular stop.

Mozza - second time

I just returned from my second visit to Mozza. Unlike my first visit, I wanted to evaluate the pizza at the most basic level...Pizza Margherita. At its core, the pies offered at Mozza are really Crusts first and Pizzas second. That being said, the crust is really amazing, almost to the point of not caring if you ever get to the toppings (which is kind of a blessing in disguise). It is crunchy, chewy, salty, and well charred. I found myself thinking how satisfying a simple thing like a well prepared dough can be. Unfortunately, this is where the compliments end. The pizza as a whole did not work. At first glance, it noticed that there was way too much basil on the pie. In my mind, the success of a Pizza Margherita is in its quality of ingredients, simplicity and balance. Outside of the crust, this pie fails at all.

When I took my first bite and tasted the toppings, I noticed the sauce was not a fresh-bright tasting sauce like you just picked the tomatoes from the garden. Instead, it appeared to be prepared much like a traditional Sunday gravy. It also had a bit of a pasty feel that took away from marrying well with the cheese. I really cannot comment on the cheese because I did not taste much. Not like I was looking for a cheese heavy experience, but this pie lacked any of the delicious compliment a great Mozzarella can make to this pizza. While I was eating, I thought it was ironic the place in called Mozza not Pane.

In the end, Mozza did not deliver a great Pizza Margherita. Aside from the crust, it did not demonstrate how you can achieve perfection through showcasing fantastic ingredients in a balanced way. I would encourage people looking for a good pie to try Antica Pizza near Playa del Rey. I feel this is one of the better and authentic pies around.