Word To Mouth

Cecconi's

2009-02-28T14:17:00.001-08:00

The English may not be known for their food, but they are masters at service. Even during the chaotic opening days, somehow Cecconi's service over delivers exuding a appealing balance of sophistication and humbleness. It is this genuine concern for their guest's well being that motivates you to route for them rather then criticize.. even when their are mishaps.

Since I never made it past the bar, I cannot comment too much on the food except to say it is good enough and has potential. The veal meatballs in tomato sauce are tasty, but unfortunately not mouth watering like the transcendent one from the original Craftbar in NYC. The cured meats, salami and focaccia plate was nice, and the stand out was the focaccia when dipped in their wonderful olive oil. Lastly, the bay scallops (which are actually beautiful plump sea scallops) with pancetta were perfectly cooked. When dealing with quality scallops like this, there is no need to mask them with the pancetta. Aside from slightly overpowering the delicate scallop flavor, it also made the overall dish border on too salty. As for wine, the Capestrano Montepulicano d'Abruzzo 2006 is a great value at $28 bottle.

I guess simply put, it is nice to see a new place that has a strong pedigree and every reason to boast, be thoughtful and appreciative of the value of each customer. Unlike half the restaurants that open in Los Angeles that treat their customers as if they are doing them a favor by allowing them to dine there, Cecconi's is welcoming and a great addition to the neighborhood dining scene.

ARB Pizza gives food courts a run for their money

2009-02-04T16:28:00.000-08:00

After reading about the new Arb Pizza being a viable NYC style pizza place, I decided to try it. I have to say I haven't been this disappointed in a long time. To be honest, the only categories of pizza this slice can compete in are theme parks and mall food courts. It fails in every way. Too much cheese to cover up the tomato paste-heavy sauce and undercooked bread...called crust when done correctly. Upon setting eyes on the slice for the first time, the slice is even a dead match for the equally wide and long shape offered at Six Flags. Save the 3 bucks, it is not even worth the floor they say you can throw it on if you don't like it.

8oz

2008-08-30T16:00:00.000-07:00

Govind Armstrong's new burger bar 8oz is nothing special...and I am not sure if that is a bad thing. I for one have had enough of the extreme burger craze. Between the over the top concoctions ala Foie Gras, and equally absurd prices with quite a few debuting over $30, it's all just too much. The biggest compliment I can pay to 8oz is that it is not trying to be something other then what it is, a neighborhood burger joint.

At 8oz, there are a good amount of burger choices. Aside from their signature 8oz, all the others are actually 6 ounces. You also get a selection of cheeses, fixins, with the classic style served simply with Iceberg lettuce, tomato, pickles and white onions. The prices are also very reasonable ranging from $10-$8 for burgers, $4 for sides, $1 for cheese, $2 for bacon etc.

In my opinion, there are two styles of burger patty; the thick and round patty and the flat thin patty with consistent thickness from end to end. Unlike great LA burgers from Comme Ca and Hungry Cat that reside in the round camp, the 8oz patty is flat and thin, kind or reminded me of Hubert Keller's Burger Bar in Vegas. Not to say it fast food thin, but very different then the thick round patty style. As a result, the first thing I noticed is that the 8oz burger is not juicy. For example, when I bite into the burger at Comme Ca or Hungry Cat, the thick and juicy center explodes and you can't help but have the wonderful juice from the meat drip down your arm. This is not the case here. The "8oz" burger that I had was good, and cooked an accurate medium rare, but tasted no different then from a decent backyard BBQ chef. Again, not necessarily a bad thing, but in the end, this burger does not have any sort of unique personality or attributes that make it something you crave for. One thing I did wish for was for the meat to be seasoned a bit more aggressively. The beef does sit center stage, but would be so much nicer with some salt. Also, I added Bel Paese, a nice cows milk cheese, but it did not stand out or add anything to the overall experience.

I would curious to know what the mix of meat vs. fat is for their burgers. This is obviously critical in achieving a leading burger. Especially in a time when chefs are experimenting with a broad array of meat mixes for their patties with combinations including Brisket, Sirloin and others. It doesn't appear that any interesting combination is part of the 8oz burger.

Note, only the 8oz is served on a La Brea Bakery bun. And, although this bun is just ok, it is better then the traditional McD's buns on the others.

I did have on order of fries which were not bad and at least crispy. Again, could have been seasoned a bit more. The real standout here was the homemade ketchup infused with Anise. Really really nice. This I would go back for.

There is a good selection of beers both draught and bottles and priced fairly starting at $5.

All that being said, what is going to make 8oz a success is the comfortable atmosphere and plentiful bar seating including a couple of flat screens. This is a real neighborhood place that will great to hang out with friends and have a bit. What this stretch of Melrose is in dire need of are pubs with good food, a good atmosphere and a few TVs to watch the games. 8oz delivers on all...and thank God, because if I have to go to El Guapo one more time to watch a game, I will kill myself.

In the end, 8oz provides a comfortable setting, good prices and a decent burger. I guess I just don't understand what Govind Armstrong thought was unique or especially tasty about the burgers in order to make it worthy of his name.

Pizzeria Bianco

2008-06-18T16:13:00.000-07:00

Some people claim this is the best pizza in the U.S. I am not sure if that is 100% accurate, but it is so good that who really cares. The crowd gathers daily at least an hour before opening, and by the time the doors open, the entire place is full with more still chomping at the bit. As part of the first group, I couldn't imagine how a place could serve the customers when they are all sat at once. The answer, 700 degree plus oven makes things cook a lot quicker. We started with to pies, th Wiseguy (right): Wood-roasted onion, house-smoked mozzarella, fennel sausage. A crowd favorite, but not my taste. I do have to say that even with not being a fan, this smokey combo delivers great balanced flavor without being too overwhelming.

The Margherita (above): Tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, basil. Really nice, and a pie that lets the ingredients speak for themselves. Simplicity at its best. Crust is really crispy yet with just the right chew.

Spiedini (above): Italian fontina wrapped in prosciutto di Parma, served warm. This was amazing and one of the best appetizers I have had.
And here's a pic from Bar Bianco (below), the adjacent watering hole serving really nice wines. If you are lucky, like me, you start and finish there.

PIZZERIA BIANCO
Location: 623 East Adams Street, Phoenix AZ 85004
Website: pizzeriabianco.com

East Village Goes To Temple

2008-06-18T12:14:00.001-07:00

The East Village Goes to Temple

Leading the East Village’s new cuisine frontier is restaurateur Jenny Maeng with her well received Korean treasure Korean Temple. Opened in 2003 as her first venture in the restaurant business, Korean Temple has established itself as a favorite among locals.

When most New Yorkers think Korean, the stereotypical grand Korean Palaces of midtown’s Koreatown come to mind. According to Maeng, although these are a part of what Korea offers, she believes Korean dining could take on a more stylish and modern approach.

Maeng has remained true to simple principles that she believes has enabled her to succeed in what many consider the most competitive restaurant geography in the city.

Maeng believes that NYC’s East Village is ready to embrace Korean cuisine, and its trend setting population will be instrumental in the proliferation of Korean cuisine much like Chinese and Japanese in the past. This is Maeng’s overall goal…with Korean competition popping up on nearby blocks, she may be well on her way to achieving it.

Maeng believes that there are three elements that have led to your success. Offer authentic Korean cuisine. Inspire staff by example. Always treat the details like they are the main attraction.

Not only does Maeng’s beautiful smile welcome the guests and grace the front of the house, but she is the brainchild behind the menu development. During her normal 12-14 hour day, Maeng spends at least a third of that time re-creating the indigenous flavors that keep patron’s palates pleasantly surprised, and the other two thirds ensuring that in between every delicious bite, everything else is perfect.

Unlike many others, Maeng elects to hire servers with little or no prior experience. Reason being she says, “there are less bad habits to overcome in training.” Her philosophy is to lead and inspire her staff by her own example. Not and easy task, but an extremely effective communication method especially in a business where the intangible attributes can be most important.

One method to help achieve this has been her ability to create symphony in service among all employees. Maeng instills a strong of teamwork by empowering the staff with a feeling of ownership. By focusing on details from food to tiny adjustments in décor customers are reassured of Maeng’s presence even if not in plain sight.

Overall, Korean Temple demonstrates once again that the East Village is the nucleus of NYC’s restaurant evolution and newly crowned restaurateurs like Maeng are fueling the growth.

BLT Steak Los Angeles

2008-04-09T13:04:00.000-07:00

There has been a lot of excitement around the opening of Laurent Tourondel's west coast outpost of BLT Steak. Like most restaurants that open in LA from a celeb chef, the population comprised of follow the leader types line up to go, but really have no reason for this other then it is the in thing to do. Osteria Mozza, the Batali-Silverton collaboration is probably the definition of this affect. Sad. But, on a friend's recommendation, I kept it in mind. Ironically, she did tell me she loved it and the fish was the star. No surprise considering Chef Tourondel's history via Manhattan short live yet notable restaurant Cello.

So, after that rant, you will probably ask how I arrived there so soon after opening?? Well, a friend invited me to went downtown to the opening of Bacaro Wine Bar downton, but when the line was 50 deep, we headed off. So now while sitting at Library Bar having a beer contemplating what happened to our night , Suzanne suggested that we make a late night trip to BLT. I agreed it would be the perfect time to try, late dining NYC style. . I am so glad we did.

Upon walking into BLT Steak, you find that the design team has successfully captured a balance of polished decor with an accessible comfort to it. As a result, BLT attracts a diverse crowd yet united by their focus on food a bit more then scene. The restaurant is inviting whether you are dining at a table, as a group in the private back room, or alone at the bar which is such a welcoming space that I am sure my next few trips will be spent dining there, much like many of NYC's great restaurants like Gotham Bar and Grill, Gramercy Tavern, etc.

After being seated we reviewed the menu and wine list, both read nicely. I decided on the Hamachi salad to start and the 22oz Ribeye with poached green beans and potato gratin on the side. Well, late night dining does have its disadvantages as I experienced when the waiter informed me that they were out of the Ribeye. My replacement was the 16oz New York...not a cut I typically get.

Two fantastic surprises came out prior to the my order. First was a beautifully crusty Pop-over cheese bread which is addicting. They are big as in softball. But then the waiter set down a huge Italian-made tin salt shaker that was the size of a beer stein. I was sort of shocked for a second, but then immediately tore into one of the warm, eggy Gruyère-topped popovers, slathered on some butter, grabbed that salt shaker and sprinkled on the sea salt.

Following that, BLT serves a warm chicken liver spread in a mason jar with La Brea Bakery sourdough. This is amazing and am tempted to go back daily if I did not think I would be dead in a week.

The Hamachi Salad arrived looking wonderful with in a yuzu vinaigrette and garnished with Jalapeno. Under the fish was a avocado puree. Overall, although not being a unique combination, it was well executed and will satisfy your craving. I still remain mixed on including the avocado, not sure if it adds anything.

Now for the main event. The steak arrived with a richly charred exterior and topped with a disc of herb butter...which I removed immediately so not to alter the flavor. The poached greens had beautiful color and were cooked perfectly. The potato gratin also well executed, as it should with such naughty ingredients. I cut into the New York and it was medium rare as ordered and a bit on the rarer side. I have to say, the first bite confirmed why Laurent Tourondel is achieving such success. The steak was tender, juicy and the exterior exploding with amazing flavor; a result of saltiness and natural well-charred flavor. This really shows that simplicity executed perfectly is hard to beat. We had a glass of The Prisoner, which was a nice compliment. BLT does offer side sauces for the steak including a red wine version which is actually quite nice, but I am a purist, especially on the first try.

Since the above experience, I have been back to BLT three time, sitting at bar each time (great place to watch a game). Each time the steak and sides have been consistently great and equal to my first impression. The one disappointing note came on the seafood front when I had shrimp cocktail that were over cooked and tough, then swordfish with stewed tomato and olive oil which had great flavor, only to be spoiled by also being over cooked. They natural oil expected to be released from the fish was gone due to temperature and therefore never had the chance to marry with the accompanying dressing.

BLT is a welcome addition to the L.A. steak scene which tends to be either old school via Mastros or too cool for school via STK or Cut. BLT has achieved a true balance in both scene and cuisine.

The Hungry Cat

2007-06-12T14:47:00.000-07:00

Have you ever had one of those meals that was so good that if you walked outside and got hit by a bus, you really wouldn't be that mad. That is the potential at The Hungry Cat. If this hasn't happened to you, then you need to stop what you are doing and take a trip to The Hungry Cat...and bring a friend.

The Hungry Cat is the brainchild of Chef David Lentz and a tribute to New England cuisine. Ironically, my least favorite item on the menu is the one that most go there for, the Lobster Roll. It is not bad, but isn't in the same league as NYC lobster palaces such as Pearl Oyster Bar, or Mary's Fish Camp. Not much in life is better then a Guinness and Lobster Roll at Pearl. Really remarkable. Anyway, back to our story.

OK, so from my perspective, a great meal is a result of a confluence of factors executed perfectly. Company you go with, service/server enthusiasm, pace, food, and choice of seat. First and foremost, pick the right person for the right dining experience. This is critical to having a great meal, so important, I treat is like casting a movie. The person you invite must be able to appreciate the cuisine, decor, price, sensibility etc. Going with the wrong person is a recipe for misery.

Let me cut to the chase and give you the winning combo for the ultimate Hungry Cat meal.
LUNCH is my ideal time

Order a draught beer and take a moment to soak up the atmosphere. Prepare for what is coming.

1. Sit at the bar. Greatest place to see take in all the action and get the inside scoop on all the hidden gems. It is social, and ensures fantastic service. Bartenders are much more interactive by nature and the ones at The Hungry Cat are proud of their job. (Except once when I had this girl who was uninformed and a total bitch. Ruined the whole meal).

2. Bring a friend who likes to share and can appreciate beer and wine pairings.

3. Start with a raw bar combo platter of your choice. Oysters, clams, lobster shrimp and either a nice Kronenbourg or Kuentz-Bas Pinot Riesling. Great way to acclimate to the environment and get started.

4. Next split the PUG burger medium rare sans Avocado. With all the talk of Father's Office and other places, this to me is by far the BEST BURGER in LA. The blue cheese is beautifully sharp and creamy and the bacon is thickly cut and both crispy and tender all stacked on a La Brea Bakery roll that has the integrity to hold its own. I feel the Avocado actually dilutes the combination and always subtract it. Also, ask them to split the burger in the kitchen to avoid destroying the integrity. With this I usually have a Craftsman Brewing Co. Ale.

5. Lastly, split the Fish Tacos with Jicama slaw. The tortillas are fragrant and with just the right char on them. They fish changes and is always nicely seasoned and wonderfully moist. The refreshing Jicama slaw is a great compliment. I usually stick to a beer on this too .

6. Consider a dessert, Beignets with the Blackberry Compote are my favorites.

Overall, The Hungry Cat is a sliver of paradise and one that I recommend as a regular stop.

Mozza - second time

2006-12-16T17:23:00.000-08:00

I just returned from my second visit to Mozza. Unlike my first visit, I wanted to evaluate the pizza at the most basic level...Pizza Margherita. At its core, the pies offered at Mozza are really Crusts first and Pizzas second. That being said, the crust is really amazing, almost to the point of not caring if you ever get to the toppings (which is kind of a blessing in disguise). It is crunchy, chewy, salty, and well charred. I found myself thinking how satisfying a simple thing like a well prepared dough can be. Unfortunately, this is where the compliments end. The pizza as a whole did not work. At first glance, it noticed that there was way too much basil on the pie. In my mind, the success of a Pizza Margherita is in its quality of ingredients, simplicity and balance. Outside of the crust, this pie fails at all.

When I took my first bite and tasted the toppings, I noticed the sauce was not a fresh-bright tasting sauce like you just picked the tomatoes from the garden. Instead, it appeared to be prepared much like a traditional Sunday gravy. It also had a bit of a pasty feel that took away from marrying well with the cheese. I really cannot comment on the cheese because I did not taste much. Not like I was looking for a cheese heavy experience, but this pie lacked any of the delicious compliment a great Mozzarella can make to this pizza. While I was eating, I thought it was ironic the place in called Mozza not Pane.

In the end, Mozza did not deliver a great Pizza Margherita. Aside from the crust, it did not demonstrate how you can achieve perfection through showcasing fantastic ingredients in a balanced way. I would encourage people looking for a good pie to try Antica Pizza near Playa del Rey. I feel this is one of the better and authentic pies around.

Mozza

2006-11-25T15:38:00.000-08:00

Mozza, the much anticipated Mario Batali/Nancy Silverton pizza place and Osteria opened just over two weeks ago. I had the chance to go 4 days in, and it was already packed. At this time, only the pizza side is open but it was enough to give a good sense of what is to come. The room has two bars, one a wine bar and the other, a pizza bar (right in front of the wood burning pizza oven). Helming the pizza bar was Nancy herself, a very good sign that this is not some novelty for namesake.

I sat at the wine bar and started with a glass of Alianico. Alianico is an Italian varietal I had not had before, but was very nice with big tannins, dark fruits and a bit of Annise. The bartender was knowledgable providing meaningful insight and overall good hospitality. Ok, so now to the main event...the pizza.

The menu offers quite a few different types of pizza: Classic Pizza Margherita, Fennel sauaage and red onion, Wild mushroom with Fontina and Tallegio, and finally a pie garnished with Lardo.

I decided on a pizza featuring salumi, chilis and mozzarella. This wouldn't have been my first choice but because I was enjoying the wine so much, I chose a pie that would with enough spice to compliment. Typically, my first evaluation is based on the establishments most simple offering such as a Margherita.

From ordering to the time my pizza arrived was a very acceptable 15 minutes. Upon arrival, the first thing I noticed was the outer crust as a bigger then expected, meaning, the area with sauce and cheese etc. started further from the edge and obviously not the focus. The pie was cooked well evidenced by a nicely charred bottom and crisp texture. This reminded me a quite a bit of Una Pizza Nepoletana in the East Village of Manhattan sans the Olive Oil splash finish.

At first bite, the crust took center stage and the best part of the initial taste. It was crisp and tender with just enough salt to be equally enjoyable on its own. The salumi was ok, but lacked the flavoring to be considered the star of the pie. The sauce was also very good, but not in the same league as a place like DiFara. The cheese was also tasty and not overbearing, but a nice compliment to the other flavors. Due to the super hot oven, the salumi also had a nice crunch to it at times.

One indication of how serious Nancy is taking this new endeavor was when she informed the staff that there would be no pizza available because the "dough is being bad" and therefore does not meet her standards.

Overall, Mozza is off to a good start, but still needs some work when it comes to ingredients and attention to detail. For example, a simple splash of Olive Oil and dusing of Grano Padano just prior to serving would have made a big difference.

Village Pizza - Los Angeles

2006-11-25T15:24:00.000-08:00

Being from NYC, I know that most will say I am overly critical of pizza, but I still feel compelled to write my view of pizza in LA, starting with the local favorite. I have been to Village Pizza on Larchmont a few times, and I have been deeply disappointed each time. I am a realist, so I do not expect magic, but do expect that things that can be controlled are done right. For example, the pizza is always undercooked resulting in a crust being flimsy and doughy. To make matters worse, their is way too much cheese weighing down crust and overwhelming all other ingredients. I understand that the dough is compsomised because of the CA water, and the sauce is not great because it is a bad reciepe, but you can still make a decent pie if you at least take care in things you can control such as the above.

Another pizza joint that gets good reviews is Albano's Brooklyn Pizza. I have been to Albano's a bunch of times and have had a pretty good experience. The flavor is pretty good and the pies are usually cooked well. The biggest problem with Albano's is their inconsistency. I am not sure the reason, but I would most likely say absentee management.

BLT Fish

2005-04-18T15:00:00.001-07:00

Overall BLT Fish is a quality experience with a beautiful top floor dining room. I do have to note that I spent my first visit at the downstairs bar. The service there was really dissapointing, but even more was the Lobster Roll. This was bordering on embarassing in all aspects including portion, flavor and choice of bread. I realize this is not the restaurnat's focus, but even so, if you decide to offer it on the menu, it must be as good as all other selections. With local competition from such gems like Pearl and Mary's I would suggest just leaving it off.

Pear Oyster Bar

2005-04-18T15:00:00.000-07:00

Pearl Oyster Bar is one of the most consistent restaurants delivering perfect Lobster Rolls via attentive service. The lobster meat is tender and pilled high and dressing has great flavor but still lets the lobster shine. The bun is soft and buttery with such beautiful texture. Even the match stick fries are well seasoned and crip. I personally believe sitting at the bar having a lobster roll and a Guiness at Pearl is quite possibly as close to perfection one will ever get for lunch. I do recommend spending your time sitting at the bar. The people who populate the bar seating are true locals that know their food. This is a real New Yorkers paradise.

Mermaid Inn

2005-04-18T14:59:00.000-07:00

The Mermaid Inn never impressed me through their cuisine. I will say that it is one of my favorite places to have a drink. They also deserve credit for being the first (to my knowledge) restaurant to serve Hitachino White Ale, a wonderful white that is spiced with Corriander and goes well with an orange slice. If you like wheat beers, this is a nice alternative.

Hearth

2005-03-04T13:43:00.000-08:00

I took a chance going to Hearth last night, reason being, I brought my Dad, a person whom normally does not dig this sort of menu. But, being that it has received many accolades, I thought it was worth the risk. I am happy to say it paid off. From its ultra attentive yet un-intrusive service, to sophisticated yet approachable cuisine, Hearth is operating on all cylinders. Even chef Marc, during the busy evening, took time to inquire about our meal. He delivers inventive combinations that are not too smart for their own good. Although the description of some items on the menu were not appealing to me, the finished product left me pleasantly surprised.

Winter Bar Dining at the Gramercy Tavern

2005-03-04T13:42:00.000-08:00

On a cold day in the middle of a nasty NYC winter, there is nothing better then sneaking in one of the city’s top restaurants for a late afternoon lunch at the bar. I have a few favorites, such as Gotham, Frank, Del Frisco’s or Pearl Oyster Bar, but recently, I spent a few blissful hours eating lunch at Gramercy Tavern. I ususally pass by at least once a week, and like the 6 train, the bar is jammed shoulder to shoulder down to the last inch. But recently, I walked by and to my amazement, it was a bit empty. Thank God for High School Winter Break. I saw my chance and before I even checked for my wallet, I was sitting at the bar with a big smile on my face. I started with a pint of Snow Dog Ale, to give my self a few mintutes to relax and digest my surroundings. That day there was one gentleman a few stools away enjoying the oysters followed by quail, and a few minutes later two more people arrived, a man and a woman. So there we were, all of us dining alone and happy as hell. I personally couldn’t think of a better place to be…I mean anywhere. Following my aperitif, I decided to start with the Portabella and Beet Tart with Goat Cheese and Arugula. When it arrived, I noticed that the natural beauty and imperfect shape of the Portabella had been compromised by a ring mold. Although the first bite was tasty and the balsamic syrup perfectly reduced, I had trouble appreciating the experience due to the form the chef decided on. It reminded me of when I stagged at A.O.C. and Suzanne Goin almost had a heart attack when I starting cutting baby Beets in a uniform manner, essentially destroying their natural appearance. The Goat Cheese and greens were served beside the tart, both very tasty and well seasoned. Following the tart, I opted to try the Sea Scallops. They were grilled to the perfect temperature, but over salted. To the point, I had to leave almost half the order uneaten. After a bit of contemplation, I decided to inform the bartender of this and requested he use this information at his discretion. He picked up on the fact I left a good portion of the meal for the trash and without even asking, prepared a cheese plate for my enjoyment. Right away I couldn’t help but think that this is a result of Danny Meyer’s dedication to his philosophy of “Enlightened Hospitality”. The cheeses were fantastic and gave me a few more minutes to enjoy the magic of good food in a remarkable restaurant.

Since the above visit, I have dined at the bar at Gramecry about ten times and am looking forward to ten more.

A Great Steel Grill Burger

2005-03-04T13:41:00.000-08:00

There are some places that as soon as you walk in, you can tell it is going to be great. There are no particular signs, except maybe the toys floating back and forth on strings, just an intangible element that tells your gut that this is a good spot. That is what I felt the first time I walked into Pauls Place, a fantastic burger joint on 2nd ave. off St. Marks Place. As soon as you enter, without even looking, you smell the beautiful aroma of beef, feel the cozy, low key sensibility and hear the sizzle of the grill doing its magic. The first time, and every time following, I ordered the same thing. A Second Avenue Burger with Cajun Fries and a side of mayo (for the burger). But before I even get to that, I must say how much I love munching on the variety of sliced pickles placed on each table while I wait for the main event. Ok, back to the burger at hand. Now Pauls offers many different and tasty sounding burgers, but like I said, I personally have never made it past their Second Avenue combination. Picture a juicy burger topped with American cheese, grilled tomato and most importantly a perfect slab of grilled ham. Top it with a mixture of ketchup and mayo, and you are in heavenwhich is a good thing, because this is just the deadly combination that can send you there fast. The Cajun fries are also good. Although these are not great, they have a crisp coating and are seasoned just enough to be addicting once you start. The wait staff is what you would expect, attentive, but not out to do you any favors. But, you can always count on seeing Paul, a bit grayer these days, behind the counter watching every burger masterpiece go out. I even love that the menu states dreamt of in 1979, established in 1989.

Dos Caminos

2005-02-27T13:17:00.001-08:00

Dos Caminos

Of all my restaurant week reservations, I expected Dos Caminos to be the least remarkable. Not that I do not believe in Steve Hanson and the BR Guest team, but just understand that there is a lot about this place outside of the food. Well, I was wrong. The entire experience was beyond my expectations. The guacamole with a touch of spice and ground to just right texture, was the best I remember in the City. Following that, we had the butternut squash empanada with goat cheese which was a unique and intelligent. The Kobe beef soft tacos were tender, smokey and nicely salted. The accompanying sauce was well spiced. Niman Ranch Pork Ribs were fantastic. I was just a Blue Smoke a few days earlier, and these ribs rose well above those. In the middle of all this, we had a visit from the Tequila Sommelier who helped pick out Corazón de Agave Añejo, which was wonderfuly smooth yet robust.

Chicken Kebob

2005-02-27T13:16:00.001-08:00

Prince Deli

There are many delis in the city and even more establishments that offer a Chicken Kebob sandwich. The number of places that offers these equals the number of different interpretation of the dish. I have been both fortunate and unfortunate enough to try some of the best and worst. Due to that fact, I am going to give a gauge for all of us who enjoy Chicken Kebob. Bereket on Houston is renown for their Turkish cuisine including some of the best tasting Kebob in NYC. But, I will say, recently I had a Chicken Kebob from Prince Deli on 43rd and 3rd avenue and it was surprisingly impressive. First, the chicken is marinated in Middle Eastern spices and char grilled on a skewer. Then instead of a pita, it is packaged in a wrap with everything on it, which is how I recommend it, (hummus, babagenush, hot sauce, salad, pickled cabbage, tabouli, tzasiki, pickles, etc. then wrapped, pressed in a sandwich press and cut and re-wrapped top on bottom. Sounds like a lot, but the passionate staff is careful to include the perfect balance of flavors and not to saturate the sandwich.

Cipriani

2005-02-27T13:16:00.000-08:00

Cipriani

42nd Street may be one of the furthest places one would think of Italy, but, I tell you, a fifteen minute stop in Cipriani Speciatilia is a quick serve Italian refuge for those who need their fix. Overall, the gourmet offers a fantastic variety of pastas, sandwiches and salads, but for me, when I am craving for an Italian fix, I go for their brilliant Prosciutto Crudo and Mozzarella de buffalo sandwich. The combination of salty Prosciutto and fresh Mozzarella on a crusty baguette is perfect . Add some rich Extra Virgin Olive Oil and you have a masterpiece through simplicity. Even the wax paper take out bag gives one a feeling of thoughtful care. A great example of the when intangible subtleties and secondary flavors permeate each other to make the whole greater then the sum of its parts.

Late night slice on upper east

2005-02-27T13:15:00.000-08:00

Three J’s

The late night crawl near 79th and 2nd leaves a well indulged partier with few options when it comes to feeding their face…a must at 3am. One recent evening, I found myself in a panic with hunger due to the fact that the all the diners including, the infamous Jackson Hole burger joint were closed and every other known food establishment were also dark. That is when I stumbled, unfortunately that is meant literally, on Three J’s Pizza on 83rd and 2nd. As usual, I over ordered getting three slices to go and one for the two block walk home. My first bite was met with warm oil, a nice coating of cheese and an al fresco tomato sauce. This was a literal eye opener being it was after 3am. When I arrived home, I ate the three remaining pieces and even though I was fading, the slices lived up to the balance of flavor I remembered just a few short minutes earlier. Over all, Three J’s reminds me of a combination of Joe’s on Bleecker and Eat at Joes on Second Avenue…two very good pies. Check it out, you won’t be disappointed.

Coffee - NYC vs. LA

2005-01-27T14:50:00.000-08:00

Back from LA now almost 3 months and still have not come close to finding a good rich cup of coffee. For those out there that live and die by the brew, or those whom just appreciate artisinal practices, should stop by Kings Road Cafe in Los Angeles. I attribute their success to many individual details executed in perfect symphony. At Kings Road, the owner Lawrence Casperson roasts the beans on presise. They also grind just prior to brewing and each cup is brewed indvidually as though they were preparing an Espresso. One other interesting note is the focus on serving the coffe at the correct temprature. All these elements and pratices result in a beautiful and robust cup of coffee that can be compared to a great cigar or rich chocolate. Beware, once you have tried Kings Road, everything else will just be a disappointment.

A.O.C. - Los Angeles

2005-01-27T11:56:00.000-08:00

A.O.C. – 8022 W. Third Street, Los Angeles, CA

For anyone who really knows food, Appellation d’Origine Controlee, a.k.a., AOC, by definition understand they are destined for a superior dining experience. This is simply because AOC is the elite standard of excellence in food preparation. Now, for all the rest of us who can’t rely on knowing culinary jargon, rely on another name meaning the same…Suzanne Goin. Ms. Goin is the Chef/Owner of this new LA culinary must and a visionary talent. Not a surprise considering her recent James Beard Award nomination.

The second opening after the much acclaimed Lucques, Goin and her partner Caroline Styne have once again met the need in the market with inventive cuisine and a sophisticated décor. The vibe from the moment you walk into A.O.C is intoxicating. At the bar, Oenophiles are in heaven tasting some of the fifty selections by the glass assembled by Ms. Styne. The adjoining dinning room is filled with both studio execs and foodies rubber necking on the fumes of the countless of small plates whisking by. The action continues at the charcuterie bar, where even during a busy Saturday night, you can view the chef slicing Sopressata, or creating a cheese plate masterpiece herself.

With her bold innovations on flavors coupled with simple cooking methods, classic dishes re-stimulate many jaded palates and have diners chattering about the menu not the Oscars.

From the sauté and grill stations, guests indulge in Veal saltimbocca with mozzarella. The veal is sliced so thin, the kitchen staff needs bifocals to handle it. The Lamb cooked over an open flame grill also wood fueled is wonderfully tender and accompanied with a feta salsa verde adding a perfect rich and salty compliment. Foie Gras Terrine with Sweet and Sour Prunes really stands out with by maintaining the flavor of each of ingredient which is often lost in the terrine process, while capturing a lovely velvety texture. Some of the richer dishes come out of the Apple wood burning over like the Salt Cod and Potato Gratin creamy with Tallegio cheese. The perfect combination of Brioche with Prosciutto, gruyere and egg is heaven…not easily done when having to cook an egg to temperature in a 600 degree oven.

Overall, Suzanne Goin presents a classic style of Tapas with what else, but AOC. Couple this with the vast wine selection for pairing, and A.O.C.becomes a weekly reservation.

Italian in LA

2005-01-27T09:00:00.000-08:00

IL Capriccio on Vermont

Little do most people know that making a right off of Vermont halfway between Franklin and Hollywood will transport you to the Bensonhurst Brooklyn…but it soon becomes apparent when you enter Il Capriccio where simple décor and holiday lights set the festive mood. This inviting mom and pop classic Italian kitchen is a refuge for east coasters yearning for real Italian food in a warm environment. While Tony in the kitchen stays true to the old country cooking philosophy using the best ingredients cooked to perfection, his wife Rosemary exudes her mother like quality welcoming each an every guest.

After all that, Il Capriccio is really about the food. Whether it be the Calamari Fritti cooked and seasoned perfectly, or the sumptuous Penne with Lamb and Eggplant prepared with juicy pieces of lamb browned and full of flavor, Tony delivers food that you can’t help interrupting you neighboring tables to rave about.

The wait staff is also pleasant and knowledgeable, recommending the many specials like the The Trilogy; grilled and sauteed lamb, sirloin and chicken, finished in a light red wine reduction and sautéed spinach. Not only was this tasty, but each meat was cooked to its individual optimal temperature. It is this careful attention to detail not often seen outside of French cuisine or top tier dinning establishments.

As for the staples, the Caprese salad is wonderful and lightly dressed so not to overshadow some of the best fresh mozzarella in LA. The Chicken Picata delivers a nice portion flavored just right. The linguini with seafood is overflowing with mussels, scallops and shrimp cooked just until done in a rich tomato sauce. Dessert is easy, Crème Brulee or Tiramisu. That is of course if you have room. And to add more delight to this fantastic dining experience, patrons have the option to bring along their own wine to be enjoyed at no corkage fee.

Il Capriccio is a must for great Italian food and full of old Hollywood charm.

P.S. Don’t look twice, but Tony does bear a strong resemblance to another Italian Tony who loves his food. Hey, you never know, at these prices, someone has to be paying the rent.

Note: since this review ownership has changed, so let's hope for the best!

January 27

2005-01-27T06:48:00.000-08:00

A new start.